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LIFESTYLE

FRENCH FAIRYLAND

BY ADELE SEVERS

Normandy’s equine veterinary hub, the CIRALE (Centre for Imaging and Research in Equine Locomotor Disorders). Image by Dollar.

Normandy is known for its stunning coastline of white-chalk cliffs, ancient cities and rich cultural heritage, but this beautiful region also offers a swathe of attractions for the horse enthusiast. As the FEI World Championships unfold in Aachen, we take a look back at the region that hosted the 2014 World Equestrian Games.

With over 700 equestrian centres, 42 racecourses, 450 trainers and more than 100,000 horses stabled in the area, Normandy’s regional equine industry generates around 18,000 jobs. This historic district of northern France provides an equestrian journey like no other for the horse lover planning a trip to France. 

Normandy is the very definition of an area of equestrian excellence with deep equine roots. From the Norman cavalry that enabled William the Conqueror to accede to the throne of England, to the current champions who are winning equestrian sports events throughout the world, this living heritage is closely connected to the distinctive features of Normandy, its history, its culture and its specific way of life. 

State of the art equestrian facilities meet the city in Normandy. Image by Dollar.

It has long been recognised that the exceptional quality of the region’s soils and climate combine to produce grass that is particularly well suited to breeding horses. Indeed, in 1715 King Louis XIV’s counsellors chose Normandy, having first travelled throughout France, as the location to establish a royal stud farm that matched his ambitions. 

Normandy is still the benchmark region for the equine industry in France, hosting numerous prestigious international equestrian competitions each year. In addition, Pôle Hippolia, France’s only equine innovation cluster, aims to “make the French equine sector a leader in terms of innovation, with Normandy as its beating heart”. The centre of expertise for equine reproduction at the Le Pin’s broodmares sector, the SIG Centaure that brings together state-of-the art laboratories and the world’s only equine veterinary hub, the CIRALE (Centre for Imaging and Research in Equine Locomotor Disorders), are some of the key organisations contributing to this fully-fledged economic sector.

Normandy is also home to iconic studs to visit and a plethora of equestrian centres that can provide you with time in the saddle.

PLACES TO VISIT

DEAUVILLE

Often referred to as the “Queen of the Norman Beaches”, Deauville is a seaside resort on the Côte Fleurie. Known for its grand casino, golf courses, horse races and American Film Festival, it’s been an upscale holiday destination since the 1800s.

There are many top-level events held each year at Deauville. Image by Dollar.

The region is known internationally as the main horse breeding region in France, particularly racehorses. There are two famous racecourses in Deauville that feature multiple Group 1 races, and also the important Ventes de Deauville yearling auction, which is held in mid-August each year.

The region is also home to many internationally renowned equestrian events. The International Equestrian Hub (Pôle International du Cheval Longines Deauville) was founded in 2010 and benefits from modern infrastructures and top-of-the-range equipment that allow it to organise and host more than 80 days of competition each year, including major international events in several disciplines. It also hosts professional horse riders, such as the rising star of show jumping Félicie Bertrand, a riding school, and a restaurant where you can watch the horses from your table.

Polo is another equine pursuit that is popular in Deauville. From Gabrielle Chanel to Winston Churchill, the lawns of Deauville have been visited by many famous personalities since the Polo Club was founded in 1907.

Australia’s Tom McDermott and Oaks Ventriloquist competing at the CSIO3* Nations Cup in Deauville earlier this year. The combination is now set to compete at the upcoming FEI World Championships in Aachen. Image by Grand Prix Events.

The Gold Cup is a not-to-be-missed event in the calendar, during which the best players in the world come for team competitions in the central area of Deauville-La Touques Racecourse. The fervid commentators will help you to understand the rules of this 1000-year-old equestrian sport. The Polo School can give you a chance to see how you handle a mallet!

Of course, one doesn’t visit Deauville without spending time on the beach! Early risers may be lucky enough to cross paths with racehorses training on the sand that is still wet from the receding tide. In the summer, petiseros, who care for the polo ponies, lead them in groups of four or five to enjoy the benefits the seawater provides. 

In the evening, horse riders walk their way to the deserted beach and enjoy the sunset. Several equestrian centres allow riders, even beginners, to take horses onto the beach. Maybe you feel that being a driver is more your thing? Discover the exhilarating sensations of trotting along the beach at Deauville on a paired sulky! 

The Pôle International du Cheval Longines Deauville hosts more than 80 days of competition each year, including international show jumping events.n Image by Les Garennes.

LE PIN NATIONAL STUD FARM

To understand the close connection between Normandy and horses, the one essential site to visit is Le Pin National Stud Farm — nicknamed “The Equine Versailles”. The oldest of the French national studs, it was built between 1715 and 1730 and spans 2,471 acres.

You can take a guided tour along the discovery trail, enjoy art exhibitions and film projections, or explore on an electric bike or carriage ride. Going on a horse ride around such an exceptional site is a wonderful experience, both for children, who will have no problem finding an appropriately sized pony, and adults who will have the opportunity to ride one of the Percheron horses that are typical of the stud. The farm also plays host to resident performing artists who present, alongside the Le Pin staff, an equestrian adaptation of Molière’s Avare that features horses both ridden and at liberty!

On Le Pin Thursdays, Percherons and the emblematic Normandy breeds are featured and you can see them in action either in the arena or in the Court of Honour for a unique demonstration. The performers will also present their equine stage partners and reveal their secrets as you take a look behind the scenes of the show. 

There is also plenty to offer in terms of education, such as the blacksmiths’ school where you can see the forge and discover a 1000-year old profession. The saddlery school, which has produced some of the best saddlers who work for the top leatherwork factories of France, also opens its doors for an inspirational demonstration of leatherwork.

The agents of the stud farm can help you experience their day-to-day activities by welcoming you into the stables before the gates open to the public, giving you a glimpse of what goes on inside. Set your alarm very early in the morning to help groom the horses and, once the stables have been swept, you can take part in the horse training session: horse driving, groundwork exercises or riding in the arena, the choice is yours.

Le Pin National Stud Farm hosts several major equestrian events throughout the year across the disciplines of eventing and jumping. It notably has a legendary cross-country course that was part of the 2014 World Equestrian Games. One of the property’s major events is Le Grand Complet; conceptualised in 1995, it became an international event in 2000 and has since become a major competition on the eventing calendar. Australian winners of major classes at the event include the likes of Chris Burton, Andrew Hoy and Clayton Fredericks.

Sir Mark Todd, pictured here on McLaren, competing at Le Grand Complet at Le Pin. Image by Les Garennes.

Alongside Le Grand Complet, there are amateur and professional show jumping competitions, breeding, side-saddle riding, endurance and combined driving: more than 100 days of competition ensure that there is a highly diverse schedule, all open to the public.

SAINT-LÔ NATIONAL STUD FARM

Built in the late 19th century in the heart of town, Saint-Lô National Stud Farm is the birthplace of the ultimate sport horse, the Selle Français breed. Working closely with the historic Stud Farm, Saint-Lô’s Equine Hub is an essential player in Normandy’s equine industry with over 140 annual events, its trading centre and its hotbed of young riders. In recent years, it has expanded at the Pôle Hippique de Saint-Lô and is one of Normandy’s three major equestrian hubs.

Take a trip into history and explore Saint-Lô National Stud Farm using the explanatory signs as a guide. You can also meet the representatives of Normandy’s emblematic horse breeds in stable No. 4. The tourist office also organises guided visits during the high season, in addition to providing virtual reality animations.

Plenty of equestrian action can be found at the Saint-Lô’s Equine Hub; pictured here is Alexis Deroubaix and Big Star. Image by Delaroque.

Of all of the events put on by Saint-Lô Equine Hub, do not miss Poneys sous les Pommiers (Ponies Beneath the Apple Trees) featuring a competition between displays from various Normandy equestrian centres; or the Normandy Horse Show, an equestrian festival that features a wide variety of disciplines as well as activities for people of all ages.

MONT-SAINT-MICHEL’S BAY

On the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites, Mont-Saint-Michel is one of Normandy’s — and France’s — most recognisable landmarks with more than three million visitors each year. A fortified commune situated on an island one kilometre off the coast, Mont-Saint-Michel is accessible by foot at low tide — however, often completely surrounded by water at high tide. For equine enthusiasts visiting this iconic bay, there is the option to explore it via horse power. Visitors can ride across the bay or enjoy a carriage ride.

The bay is also one of the top places for racehorse training. While some still train on the beach, the trainers have left the dunes behind to link up with the Dragey-Ronthon Training Centre that was founded in 1997. A network of paths and tracks connects the nearby stables to the centre and allows riders to get onto the bridle paths. Particularly suited to the training needs of both flat racers and jump racers, the centre has modern tracks that provide unrivalled views over Mont-Saint-Michel.

A short distance to the north, in Lessay, the great Sainte-Croix Fair has been featuring horses, cows, sheep and goats since the 11th century. Started up by Benedictine monks anxious to develop trade, the fair was a major source of horses for the army and remains one of Normandy’s most important livestock fairs. Initially used to select horses to pull heavy loads and transport soldiers, trot races opened up to the public after the First World War. It was an officer of the National Stud Farms, Ephrem Houël, later the head of Le Pin Stud Farm, who was behind the first official trot race held on the beach at Cherbourg in 1837.

The racetrack at Jullouville is a temporary installation, located on the sandy beach between two high tides. Both harnessed and mounted trotters compete in races and a very convivial atmosphere reigns. Sandcastles or horses? No need to choose between the two here!

Endurance competitions make the most of the beautiful countryside. Image by Daniel Halbout Photography.

AN ICONIC BREED

Now the No. 1 horse breeding region in France, Normandy is the home of the Selle Français. Loosely translating to “French saddle horse”, this sport horse breed is renowned primarily for its success in show jumping — and many have been successful in dressage and eventing as well. The breed was created in 1958 when several French riding horse breeds were merged into one stud book. The new breed was meant to serve as a unified sport horse during a period when horses were being replaced by mechanisation and were transforming into an animal used mainly for sport and leisure.

Normandy has been the birthplace of some of the very greatest equine performers in the world, in particular when it comes to show jumping horses: Quidam de Revel, Orient Express HDC, Baloubet du Rouet, and Diamant de Semilly. All Selle Français, and all born in Normandy!

DIAMANT DE SEMILLY (1991 – 2022)

Diamant de Semilly qualified at 4, 5 and 6 years old for the French National Young Horse Championship in Fontainebleau and went on to compete at the highest level in show jumping. Ridden by Eric Levallois, Diamant’s most memorable achievements included team gold at the 2002 WEG, and team silver at the 2003 European Championship, as well as regular placings in international classes.

As a stallion, Diamant de Semilly is ranked “Elite” by the Selle Français Studbook and has been consistently named Best Sire of Young Horses at the French Championships in Fontaineblau. He is one of the world’s most influential jumping sires and has established himself as a pre-eminent living sire of jumping horses.

Diamant de Semilly and Eric Levallois of France, pictured here at the 2002 World Equestrian Games in Jerez de la Fronteira, Spain. Image by Hippo Foto – Dirk Caremans.

QUIDAM DE REVEL (1982 – 2014)

Born in the famous “Q” year in France, Quidam de Revel went on to become a jumping star. He was a member of the French Olympic team, finishing fourth individually at the Barcelona Games with Hervé Godignon. He then went on to become a very influential sire and in 2004 topped the World Breeding Championships Jumping Stallion ratings for the second year running, establishing himself as the pre-eminent – and most expensive – living sire of jumping horses at the time.

ORIENT EXPRESS HDC (2002)

Orient Express HDC was a highly successful international showjumper with wins and placings at some of the sport’s most prestigious events, such as the Grand Prix classes at Rotterdam, La Baule, Helsinki World Cup, and La Coruna. In 2013 with rider Patrice Delaveau, Orient Express HDC won the Nations Cup team competition; in 2014 he backed it up with an individual and team silver medal at WEG. The horse was retired in 2016 to stand at stud and has been a successful sire.

BALOUBET DU ROUET (1989 – 2017)

Baloubet du Rouet is one of the most successful showjumpers in history. Starting his career with the legendary Nelson Pessoa and then later with his son Rodrigo, he was successful in young horse classes then went on to win three World Cup Finals and was the individual gold medallist at the 2004 Athens Olympics. Baloubet du Rouet has also been an incredibly influential stallion, with his most successful son, Balou du Rouet, reaching the top 10 of the best jumper sires and eventer sires in the world himself.

VASSILY DE LASSOS (2009)

And then of course there is Andrew Hoy’s Vassily de Lassos, who is about to represent Australia at the FEI World Championships in Aachen, Germany. Vassily is French-bred by the Selle Français stallion Jaguar Mail out of the Anglo Arab mare Illusion Perdue X (Jalienny AA).

Andrew HOY (AUS) & VASSILY DE LASSOS

Andrew Hoy and Vassily de Lassos. Image by Jon Stroud Media.

“And then of course there is
Andrew Hoy’s Vassily de Lassos…”

In his tenth season with Andrew, 17-year-old Vassily has competed at the 2018 World Equestrian Games in Tryon, the 2021 Olympic Games in Tokyo (team silver and individual bronze), and the 2022 FEI World Championships in Pratoni del Vivaro, as well as several Nations Cup – with countless other international successes along the way. EQ

This article was first published in Equestrian Life, January/February 2020.